Hair Properties

HAIR PROPERTIES

HAIR STRUCTURE AND SET-UP

The Hair has three different layers:

1. Cuticle, or the outer layer
2. Cortex, or the inner structure
3. Medulla, an area that is not developed in all hair

CUTICLE

The Cuticle is composed of 5 – 10 overlapping layers. When
healthy it’s smooth, and lays flat. The hair appears healthy and shiny,
and works to protect the inside. When the cuticle is damaged,
the outer layers are raised, exposing the inside of the hair and
leading to damage and a dull appearance.

A healthy cuticle supports an even uptake of chemical products.
A damaged, open cuticle allows chemical products to be absorbed
morequickly and thus more unevenly. That can mean unwanted
and dark results with color.

CORTEX

The Cortex, the inner middle layer, is the most important
and complex part of the hair.

Because it contains protein chains, hydrogen bonds, salt bonds
and disulfide bonds, it is relevant for chemical services like coloring,
perming, straightening or keratin treatments. Because of its
inner structure, the Cortex is responsible for strength and flexibility.
It also contains the pigments (melanin) that determine natural
hair color.

CORTICAL CELL

A cortex cell contains Macrofibrils.

MACROFIBRIL

Each Macrofibril consists of Microfibrils.

MICROFIBRIL & PROTOFIBRIL

Microfibril (Intermediar Filaments) consists of Protofibrils,
each made of Protofilaments.

Each Protofilament is made of Alpha-Helices.

ALPHA-HELIX

In the innermost the hair is made of disulfide, ionic and hydrogen bonds,
that forms the Alpha-Helix.

MEDULLA

The Medulla is the innermost layer of the hair. Because it’s not present
in all hair, mainly normal to coarse hair textures, it also has nothing to do
with how the hair responds to chemical processing. However, it can
enhance the shine and color of hair by encouraging light reflection.

MEMBRANE COMPLEX AND LIPIDS

Between each cortex cell, between each cuticle cell and between the cortex and the cuticles there is a cell membrane complex. This complex consists of lipids and proteins that act like glue, holding hair components together. The matrix surrounds the helical filaments.

LIPIDS

Lipid is a collective term for the various groups of fatty acids, triacyglyceride
(fat and fat oils) waxes, phospholipids, sphingolipids, lipopolysaccharides
and isoprenoids (steroids, carotinoids, etc).

Lipids are a natural part of hair. A balanced lipid level guarantees strong,
shiny hair full of elasticity. Chemical and mechanical processes
can lead to a loss in lipids making hair feel weak and porous and
making it look lifeless and dull.

Learn more about our IntraLipid™ Technology here.

Learn more about Hair Facts here.