The client should be asked which of those five possibilities is the preference. Using your color chart pick 4-5 shades, fan them and display at the hairline and in the face area of the client so she can see.
If the color in the mid-length and ends are more than 2 levels lighter than the target shade, a pre-pigmentation filler can provide the optimum base for the next steps.
If the color in the mid-length and ends is darker the hair must be lightened.
In cases where the hair was previously colored, SilkLift or Oxycur Platin can be used to “clean the canvas”, readying hair for the next steps.
If hair is virgin, any color product can be used.
Whenever previously lightened hair needs to be colored darker or given a brighter fashion direction it is important to consider what happens during the lightening process. In essence, the natural pigments of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin are largely reduced, or no longer exist.
In some cases it might be necessary to add an extra portion of dye prior to coloring in order to replace the missing pigments and ultimately provide a richer color result.
Porous or very porous hair tends to absorb chemical products more quickly and more intensely than healthy, non-porous areas. This is called grabbing and can lead to a darker or an uneven result. That’s why it’s important to choose products and formulations that can balance porous areas and counteract differences to ensure evenness from re-growth to ends.
While a color for the re-growth often requires a higher alkalinity and/or peroxide concentration, the mid-length and ends may only need color balancing without lift or gray coverage. Gentle but equally durable results can be achieved with GOLDWELL Colorance or Elumen.
Another way to prevent grabbing is to create balance and prepare hair for even color uptake by using Structure Equalizer Spray. This spray also supports the Color Equalizer System in Topchic hair color.
Learn more about Hair Porosity and the Color Equalizer System.
Read more about hair porosity here.
For details about Lipids please read here.
Learn more about Color Theory here.